Thai China
The story behind Thailand’s famous Benjarong dinnerware.
It’s a good idea, and very simple. Take a lump of mud and dry it in the sun until it goes like putty. Shape it into a pot and then burn it for three days. Well, that’s the basic idea. But this will produce pottery that’s not even fit for a village chief, never mind a king. So let’s leave the huts and go into the city. Try again. Use clay this time. It’s better ‘mud’ with high silica content. Bake it properly. Fire it in a kiln at a high temperature – the silica particles melt. Result: a pot that holds water and doesn’t fall apart. It’s a dull, basic, earth-coloured pot, but at least we’re getting somewhere.
All over the world there are large natural deposits of clay. And where there’s fine clay, there’s a ceramics industry waiting to happen. Household names like Wedgwood in England and Dresden in Germany. Places where experts have refined the art of ceramics. The Chinese were the first to get to grips with this. The Song Dynasty (960-1127) produced magnificent porcelain - some of the finest the world has ever seen. And it’s here that we find the roots of Benjarong, the Royal Porcelain of Thailand.
Benjarong is the name given to bespoke, hand-painted bone china and porcelain made exclusively in Thailand. Pieces were originally made for the Royal Court of Thailand and its wealthy merchants. And it’s only relatively recently that it has become available for public purchase. There’s a romantic history to the porcelain that can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty in China (1368-1644). Tradition has it that some 600 years ago, a princess from China married into the Siamese Royal Family, and brought with her Benjarong porcelain. At that time it is understood that it was made only for the Emperor of China. Benjarong was then supplied from China to the King of Siam for several generations. Eventually, suitable deposits of kaolin (clay) were discovered in Thailand which allowed the production of porcelain to commence in the country. The King of Siam brought some of the artists over from China and established workshops near his palace.
It continued to be produced in small communities of artists, with skills handed down from generation to generation, for the next 400 years. Some of these ancient patterns are free-form, and contrast with the more structured and geometric patterns devised within Thailand. Many of these patterns were designed in the reign of King Rama II (1809-1824), but further patterns evolved over the next hundred years. In particular, the trellis pattern dates to the reign of one of the most revered kings, Rama V (or King Chulalongkorn, 1868-1910). It was during his reign that craftsmen were sent from Thailand to England to learn the techniques involved in making bone china.
The term Benjarong is derived from the Balinese word ‘benja’ and the Sanskrit word ‘rong’ which together literally mean ‘five colours’. Traditionally, they were red, yellow, green, blue and white. In more recent times, however, these colours have been augmented by maroon and 18 carat gold. Designs over the centuries have increased in number, but many still include the following as their basic elements: the rose, the lotus flower, and other emblems representing the Chakri and Supan dynasties in Thailand. Generally, Benjarong is characterised by densely painted and delicately detailed designs, with enamelled relief glaze emphasising the background which is further accentuated by gold. Each piece of Benjarong is made to order and has the artist’s signature on the base.
Early in the 1900s, King Rama V permitted Benjarong to be used by the aristocracy and by certain wealthy and influential merchants. Then later, the late King of Thailand, King Bhumibol Adulyadej, decreed at the commencement of his reign that Benjarong was to be available to all who had the means to purchase it.
If you happen to be in Bangkok for a few days you could visit Ban Don Kai Dee, or Benjarong Village as it’s also known. It’s in the province of Samut Sakhon just to the west of the capital, and the villagers have formed a strong handicraft group that welcomes visitors. You can join in demonstrations of the different processes used in production of the porcelain, tour the village and surrounding area. And, of course, purchase some souvenirs.
But, whilst you’re on Samui, do what you’re really supposed to do with this marvellous china, and that’s eat from it!