Where Gourmets Gather

Inordinately good food at Poppies Restaurant.

Rocketing to fame has quickly turned Samui, a once unknown island, into an international destination, a kind of vacation prodigy, with shops, businesses, resorts and restaurants setting up and then constantly morphing into new versions of themselves – or even something entirely different. People who once travelled here in the 90’s are constantly surprised by all the changes. They seek out the resorts and restaurants they once knew, only to find that they have long since closed or transformed. Yet for all that, some things have stayed the same; there are still leading places that have defied the passage of time as if it never existed. And they’re still leaders too. Such is Poppies Samui. It’s high up on the list of time-honoured places that have kept true to their original concept. An island favourite from when it first started offering fine food and drink, it’s still right up there at the top as a place where guests come for lunch, dinner or just a long drink overlooking its beach. Poppies was built in the 80s, and soon became one of the very first of Samui’s upscale resorts and restaurants. And today it’s still highly sought after.

Its façade hides quite a few surprises. Go through the atrium and you’ll find some of the lushest and most beautiful gardens on Samui. Follow the path as it meanders through the grounds, crossing a stream and a carp pond, and you’ll soon get the idea that this is one of the easiest places around to unwind. A bit further on you’ll see, amongst all the greenery, the azure blue of the swimming pool and, right next to it, the iconic Burmese teak pavilion that houses the restaurant. As approaches to restaurants goes, this is pretty spectacular. But it’s not the only one; there’s an alternative - at dinner time, staff are happy to open up an unmarked door that leads to what appears to be a tiny windowless room filled with memorabilia. A bookcase swings back to reveal a long, gently curving corridor that secretly winds its way to the restaurant. It was originally built so that staff could ferry things back and forth without disturbing the guests. These days it’s lined with paintings depicting Poppies’ history. Some of the people in the paintings still work here today; out of all the resorts on Samui, this is one place that has kept staff the longest. It’s very much a people place, with the convivial restaurant a focal point not just for holidaymakers but also those living on the island. And like all the best holiday spots, people who have visited once want to return.

The two executive chefs, Khun Wantanee, who’s in charge of everything Thai, and Khun Noi, who is responsible for the international side, have each been refining the fare here for over two decades. Their expertise is apparent in the menu, which is a delight to read through, and which gives guests a wide-ranging choice of fare to choose from, whether it’s traditional Thai or international.

Stand-out offerings include a series of different ‘kantok’, shared four-course meals plus dessert, presented on a traditional rattan tray in exquisite ceramic containers. Then there’s an excellent ‘pinto’, a meal, again for sharing, which comes in a traditional stack of round trays. Both the kantok and pinto meals are so delicious that they’ll easily win you over to the traditional Thai ways of eating. A full selection of other equally delicious Thai appetizers and mains awaits.

For international dishes, the focus isn’t just on the freshest of local ingredients, as it is with Thai, but also top quality imports, a fact that’s evident in everything from the pasta used in Italian dishes to the Australian steaks and other meats. Vegetarians are also delighted with the fare both on the Thai and international side. And when it comes to wine, there’s a generous selection to suit all tastes and pockets. If you’re worried about your waistline you might think to forego the desserts, but be warned, they’re on the irresistible side. Then enjoy a complimentary shot glass of Kahlúa to finish off your meal here.

Every Saturday night, starting at 7:30 pm, treat yourself to traditional Thai dancing along with live music. With the dancers all wearing traditional clothing and a band playing traditional instruments, the show is highly recommended. At the same time catch a traditional craft market. Meanwhile, enjoy all the wonderful dishes of the à la carte menu.

Poppies really looks after all its guests, and you might just not want to leave. The gardens house beautiful accommodation – think 24 cosy and luxuriously appointed cottages – and it can definitely be said that if lunch and dinner here are great, so too is actually staying here on holiday.

Dimitri Waring