Samui Wining & Dining
Dessert Island
Amala Restaurant’s Executive Chef, Martin Selby, shares his secret recipe
for a highly innovative ‘Dark and Milk Chocolate Cremeux’.

 

Dessert IslandOur dessert recipe this month has its roots in the Catalan region of Spain. And Martin Selby, the Executive Chef at Prana Resorts & Spa’s Amala Restaurant in Bangrak, has given it a modern twist. His ‘Dark and Milk Chocolate Cremeux’ has sea salt flakes, fruity olive oil, lime marshmallow and iced coffee added to create classic flavour pairings that will grace any table. A fair amount time and more than a little skill are needed for the preparation but the end result will have your dinner guests extolling your culinary abilities for years to come.

 

Dark and Milk Chocolate Cremeux (serves 10)

 

Lime marshmallow

Ingredients for 40 cm x 50 cm tray

120g                lime juice

3 tsp                agar agar

250 gms           sugar

15 gms             invert sugar (a mixture of glucose and fructose)

60 gms             water

60 gms             egg whites

 

Method

1) The lime juice has to be reduced to 50 ml in a non-reactive pan.

Martin’s tip for exact reduction: “Before you start, pour 50ml of water into the pan, which you will use for the lime juice reduction. Place a wooden stick in the water and mark where the surface of the water meets the stick. Pour out the water and set the stick aside.

2) Bring the lime juice to the boil with agar agar powder and reduce to 50 ml (use the stick to measure). Remove from the heat and set aside.

3) In a saucepan, bring the sugar, invert sugar and water to the boil, wash away any sugar crystals.

4) Place the egg whites in a machine bowl fitted with a whip attachment and when the sugar has boiled to 125°C, start whipping the egg whites at a low-medium speed.

5) When the sugar syrup has reached 130°C remove from the heat and whip the egg whites at high speed. Pour the syrup along the inner edge of the bowl in a steady stream.

6) Whip to lukewarm. Meanwhile, heat the lime mixture until just melted and add to the lukewarm meringue.

7) Remove from the mixer and spread on a lightly oiled parchment sheet.

8) Hours later (or the next day) the marshmallow can be lightly sprinkled and tossed in an equal mixture of corn or potato starch and confectioners’ sugar.

 

Chocolate Cremeux

Ingredients

60 gms             double cream

120 gms           whole milk

2                      egg yolks

37 gms             icing sugar

90 gms             dark chocolate

 

Method

1) Bring the cream, milk and about half of the sugar to a boil in a small saucepan.

2) Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk the egg yolks smooth and very rapidly whisk in the remaining sugar. Make sure no egg yolks and sugar lumps are still visible.

3) Pour a quarter of the boiling milk into the egg yolk mixture and whisk quickly. Then pour the tempered egg mixture into the heated milk and on low heat stir the mixture to 81°C while constantly stirring using a rubber spatula. Remove from the heat and pour into another bowl to stop the cooking process.

4) Add the chocolate and make the mixture smooth using an immersion blender or whisk. Allow to cool until lukewarm before pouring into a plastic container. Place in a refrigerator.

5) Now repeat the process replacing the dark chocolate with the milk chocolate.

 

 

Iced Coffee

Ingredients

600 ml             full cream milk

75 gms             coarsely ground coffee

5                      egg yolks

125 gms           golden caster sugar

400 ml             double cream

1-2 tbsp           Kahlúa

 

Method

1) Pour the milk into a pan, place on a low heat and tip in the coffee. Stir well and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat, give it a brief whisk and cover. Leave to infuse for at least 30 minutes. Strain through muslin into a bowl.

2) Beat the egg yolks and sugar together until thick and pale yellow, then add the coffee milk. Gently whisk together and pour back into the rinsed-out milk pan. Make the custard with this mixture and be careful not to let it boil (but it does need to thicken slightly).

3) Pour into a chilled bowl and whisk in the cream and Kahlúa. Leave to cool completely and remove any surface froth with a spoon. Churn in an ice-cream machine.

 

Assembly

1) Using a long plate, measure strips of marshmallow as long as the plate and half the width. Cut using a pizza roller.

2) Place on the plate lengthways.

3) Now quenelle (make into an oval shape) two milk and two dark chocolate cremeux and arrange on a marshmallow strip.

4) Form two small scoops of coffee ice-cream, place in-between the cremeux.

5) Drizzle with a fruity olive oil and top with sea salt flakes and micro basil leaves.

 

Johnny Paterson

 


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